'GET ME PATRICK' - ADDIO PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

"È con grande tristezza che annunciamo la morte di Patrick Demarchelier, avvenuta il 31 marzo 2022, all'età di 78 anni."- Questo l'annuncio su Instagram da parte dell'entourage del fotografo. 

 Demarchelier nasce in un piccolo paesino vicino Parigi nel 1943, trascorre la sua adolescenza a Le Havre. A 17 anni la sua prima macchina fotografica. A 20 anni si trasferisce a Parigi dove diventa fotografo prima lavorando come assistente di Hans Feurer, poi in proprio per Elle e Marie Claire. Nel 1975 si trasferisce a New York iniziando una lunga collaborazione con le riviste americane, in particolare le testate di Condé Nast come Vogue, Glamour e Mademoiselle. Nel 1992 approda ad Herper's Bazaar, assunto da Liz Tilberis, per le sue fotografie così chiare, grafiche. Era il materiale perfetto per i paginoni disegnati dal direttore creativo Fabien Baron. Dagli anni '70 a oggi, Demarchelier ha realizzato le copertine di Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Elle, Esquire e Arena Homme. Suo, il Calendario Pirelli del 2005 e del 2008. Portano la sua firma anche molte campagne pubblicitarie maison d'alta moda da Chanel a Yves Saint Laurent, da Louis Vuitton a Versace fino a Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren e Calvin Klein. Fu il primo a fotografare Lady Diana di cui divenne il ritrattista ufficiale, il primo non britannico ad esser scelto come fotografo reale, con scatti che catturavano l'informalita' della principessa. 

Herper's Bazaar ha definito così il suo lavoro: "Per gente che vuole veramente apparire belle, Demarchelier è diventato il fotografo di elezione, forse il più desiderato degli anni '90".

Lili Rose Depp for Chanel 

Cindy Crawford 

Claudia Schiffer.
Madame Figaro, 1990.

Kate Moss for Calvin Kein 1992

Kate Moss, New York, 2010

Nadja Auermann for Herper Bazaar 
  July 1994

Nude. St. Barthélémy 1994

Dior Haute Couture, 2011. 

Christy Turlington, 1987

Sasha Pivovarova for Dior S/S 2018

Angelina Jolie for Vanity Fair

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER: ALBERT WATSON

Born and raised in Edinburgh, Scotland, Albert Watson studied graphic design and he began his career in 1970 in Los Angeles, Albert’s distinctive style eventually caught the attention of American and European fashion magazines such as Mademoiselle, GQ, and Harper’s Bazaar, which booked him for a shoot with Alfred Hitchcock. In 1976, Albert landed his first job for Vogue, and with his move to New York that same year, his career took off . Watson blending art, fashion and commercial photography into some of the most iconic images ever seen. The photographs create an aura that takes the viewer into the image but simultaneously demands a reverent distance. His striking photographs and stunning hand-made prints are featured in galleries and museums around the world. Over the years, Albert’s photographs have appeared on more than 100 covers of Vogue worldwide and been featured in countless other publications, from Rolling Stone to Time to Harper’s Bazaar many of the photos iconic fashion shots or portraits of rock stars, rappers, actors and other celebrities. Albert also has created the photography for hundreds of ad campaigns for major companies, such as Prada, the Gap, Levi’s, Revlon and Chanel. He has shot dozens of Hollywood movie posters, such as “Kill Bill” and “Memoirs of a Geisha,” and has also directed more than 100 television commercials. All the while, Albert has spent much of his time working on art projects for museum and gallery exhibitions.

DORA MAAR AT THE CENTRE POMPIDOU

Paris-The Centre Pompidou, Musée national d’art moderne, in coproduction with the J. Paul Getty Museum (Los Angeles) and in collaboration with the Tate Modern (London) hosts the largest French retrospective ever devoted to Dora Maar (1907-1997) invites you to discover all the facets of her work, through more than five hundred works and documents. Initially a professional photographer and surrealist before becoming a painter, Dora Maar is an artist of undeniable renown. Far beyond the image, to which she is all too often limited, of her intimate relationship with Picasso, this exhibition retraces the life of an accomplished artist and a free and independent intellectual.
Dora Maar belonged to the generation of women with artistic ambition, who emancipated themselves professionally through photography, specifically thanks to the development of the illustrated press and advertising market in 1930s. Educated at the Ecole Technique de Photographie et de Cinématographie of the City of Paris, in 1931 she received her first commissions and opened a photography studio  with film-set designer Pierre Kéfer. Portraits, fashion, advertising projects were among their specialities. After their separation, Dora Maar opened her own studio at 29, rue Astorg in Paris and continued her commissioned project up until 1939. After 1945 she would revisit the world of fashion, creating several graphic project for the fashion house Heim.

portrait of Frida Kahlo

portrait of Pablo Picasso

Dora Maar by Man Ray, 1936

IRVING PENN EXHIBITION GRAND PALAIS

2017 marks the centenary of the birth of Irving Penn (1917-2009), one of the greatest photographers of the20th century.
This exhibition, organized by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York and The Réunion des musées nationaux– Grand Palais, in collaboration with The Irving Penn Foundation,is the first major retrospective of the American artist’s work in France since his death.
 Celebrated for more than sixty years of masterly work at Vogue magazine, Irving Penn was a superb photographer of style, but his attention to fashion was merely one aspect of his lifelong study of face and figure, attitude and demeanor, adornment and artifact. As his penetrating portraits reveal, Penn had few equals as an observer of human expression. He also had an acute graphic intelligence and a sculptor’s sensitivity to volumes in light. These talents came to the fore in his studies of the nude and in still life, a genre he favored throughout his career. The Irving Penn exhibition offers a comprehensive vision of the range of genres he worked in: fashion, still life, portraits, nudes, beauty, cigarettes and debris. Penn acquired his first Rolleiflex in 1938 while working as an assistant at Harper’s Bazaar. Penn’s earliest photographs are studies of nineteenth-century shopfronts, hand-lettered advertisements, and street signs in Philadelphia and New York. With their visual clarity and vernacular content, these pictures reflect the subject matter of Depression-era, documentary- style photography. After serving in the war, in 1945 Penn returned to his work at Vogue. To infuse the magazine with culture and boost his associate’s budding career, art director Alexander Liberman asked Penn to make a series of portraits of personalities. Once Penn’s prowess in portraiture was established, Alexander Liberman groomed him for fashion. “Alex thought I was a bit of a street savage,” Penn recalled. He was instructed to buy an evening jacket and to attend “the collections,” the highly anticipated showings of Parisian couture. However, the crush of competing photographers and excited editors at these events overwhelmed Penn. He preferred to work away from the fray, and, if possible, in a daylight studio. For the 1950 collections, therefore, a Paris studio was found, as well as a theatrical curtain that served as a neutral backdrop.
-Until January 29th, 2018

Girl with Tobacco in Tongue
(Mary Jane Russel, 1951)

The Twelve Most Photographed Models, 1947

Glove and Shoe, 1947

Balenciaga Sleeve
(Regina Derise, 1950)

Balenciaga Mantle Coat
(Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, 1950)

Black and Whote Fashion with Handbag, 1950

Dior Dress, 1949

Large Sleeve (Sunny Harnett, 1951)

Woman with Roses, 1950

Woman in Chicken Hat, 1949

Café in Lima, 1948

Balenciaga Rose Dress, 1967

Issey Miyake Staircase Dress, 1994

Marisa Berenson 

Nicole Kidman in Chanel

Black Hat and White Face
(Carolyn Murphy, 1997)

Lacroix Lace Dress
Shalom Harlow, 1995)

Christian Lacroix Duchesse Satin Dress, 1995

Caroline Trentini in Chanel Haute Couture, 2007