AMENIRDIS - ABITI COME LUCE

Attraverso i suoi abiti dipinti a mano, gli inchiostri e i pigmenti pensati per chi ama un lusso discreto, Sabina Paganelli crea pezzi sartoriali di pura seta. Ama i tessuti naturali che, come mantelli di luce, abbracciano con leggerezza chi li indossa. Amenirdis, questo il nome del suo brand, è la nostra parte migliore. Un punto che brilla e unisce. Un affaccio privilegiato sul mondo in cui l’eleganza della forma si abbina ad una sostanza che ne delinea il carattere unico e raffinato, rendendo speciale ogni tocco. Un raggio di luce che pervade la materia e illumina le sete con stampe preziose e originali. Ma Amenirdis è anche maglieria ricercata, che ricorda l'eleganza delle divise da tennis degli anni trenta, un po' Deauville, un po' Newport, con filati strepitosi tra cashemire e cotone che sembra seta. 

Queste creazioni sartoriali, poetiche e uniche si possono trovare da Motu a Roma in via Tirso 21 e anche on line su amenirdis.it.

 

 

NEW LABELS: LONGSHAW WARD

LONGSHAW WARD is a Womenswear and Accessories label, designed by us (husband and wife team Kirsty Ward and David Longshaw) in their London studio. They met in the design studio of Alberta Ferretti, in Italy. 

Longshaw Ward has shown on the catwalk at London Fashion Week as well as internationally including in China and Eastern Europe. Kirsty Ward is a Womenswear MA graduate of Central Saint Martins. Selected for a wealth of prestigious projects she was part of Selfridges Bright Young Things, selling in store and creating her own Oxford St window. Statement jewellery has always been a strong aspect of the brand, this coupled with a defined signature handwriting in her ready-to-wear line, lead to Kirsty being championed by VOGUE Italia in two exhibitions in Milan, she has been stocked internationally by prestigious stores including Comme Des Garçons Trading museum in Paris and Tokyo where she collaborated on a mens and women’s monochrome jewellery collection. 

Kirsty and her designs have been featured in magazines such as, VOGUE Japan, VOGUE Italia, ELLE, Grazia, L’Officiel, Nylon. David Longshaw graduated from the Womenswear courses of both St Martins (BA) and the Royal College of Art (MA). 

Longshaw has design experience at Alberta Ferretti, Max Mara and time as Creative Director of a luxury Chinese brand. David’s strong illustrative style has lead to collaborations with Triumph, NailsInc, Michelin starred restaurant Yauatcha, Harrods and the creation of windows for stores including Matchesfashion.com and luxury London Knightsbridge store Feathers. David has written and illustrated 5 published ‘fashionable children’s tales for grown-ups’. He has contributed to a number of magazines including illustrations for vogue.co.uk, a series of comic strips for VOGUE Italia and animations for LOVE magazine. 

 Longshaw Ward is a collaborative label focusing on designing luxury, forward thinking pieces for modern, intelligent women. Covetable contemporary pieces with a strong aesthetic are the main principles of the brand’s DNA. The collections concentrate on beautiful, detailed craftsmanship. With all pieces being made in the UK, using thoughtfully sourced fabrics and materials. 

The creative partnership has it’s own unique handwriting to that of the duo’s previous labels. The brand still echo's Wards strong jewellery techniques, garment layering and masculine style with Longshaw’s more draped, feminine and hand drawn aesthetic.

 Longshaw Ward has been worn by the likes of Gigi Hadid, Jorja Smith, Daisy Lowe, Poppy Delevingne, Mabel, Hannah Peel, Eliza, Charity Wakefield, Raye, Amber Rose Revah, Andreya Triana, Noga Erez, Sienna Guillory, Lyves, Laura Lee from Khruangbin… 

 Featured in L’Officiel, VOGUE, NYLON, ELLE, Marie Claire, Grazia, The Sunday Times Style, Chanel 4, the Guardian, Le Figaro – Madame, LOVE, TATLER, HUNGER, The Observer , Harpers Bazaar, Schon, WWD….

new collection

new collection

images selection from old collections

AZ FACTORY : THE NEW PROJECT BY ALBER ELBAZ

In an article of mine a couple of years ago I wondered how it was possible that a talented designer like Alber Elbaz was out of work. Finally these days the Israeli designer presented his new project: AZ Factory. Alber Elbaz, who made his name at storied fashion houses including Yves Saint Laurent and spent a 14-year spell at Lanvin, marked AZ Factory’s global launch with a 25-minute film, Show Fashion, aired Tuesday night on Haute Couture’s online platform, AZ Factory’s website and YouTube. AZ Factory is making its debut exclusively at Farfetch, Net-a-Porter and the brand’s website with the first product story centred around a little black dress (11 versions of the little black dress) from engineered knitwear. All of it is made with what Mr. Elbaz calls “Anatoknit,” a ribbed knit with ergonomic lines of 13 different tensions that constrain and release for maximum movement and security, creating support for the back almost like an orthopedic belt. It took him seven months to get it right. There is a polo style and one with giant, structured sleeves and one with a big statement bow that can be buttoned on and off; portrait necklines and square necks and symmetric necks. All of them close with gold zippers (one of Mr. Elbaz’s former signatures was the visible zip) with a long matching loop like the pull on a scuba suit so the wearer can manipulate it no matter where on the garment it is, and doesn’t have to ask anyone else for help. Later product lines include colourful dresses and €455 “pointy sneaks”. Prices start at €210 and sizes span XXS to XXXXL. After that comes what Mr. Elbaz calls “switchwear” — that is, primary-colored bubble skirts and tunic T-shirts and ball skirts and double-breasted jackets and hoodies with the drape of a bubble shade. They’re all made from recycled polyester that looks like duchesse satin that can be pulled on and off over leggings and T-shirts for a meeting or a lunch or a gala event. Plus seven pajama sets by seven artists celebrating kissing, dancing, hugging and other celebrations of human tactility. And after that comes a group of what look like classic brocades and piqués — tennis dresses and tuxedo suits and strapless columns — all of which are actually made from a nylon microfiber yarn. Mr. Elbaz discovered the yarn, called Nylstar (96 filaments in a single thread), at a yarn laboratory in Spain and then had it woven by a company in Amsterdam to create the three-dimensional effect of opulence. Except that, since it’s actually technical, it can be crushed and packed and sat upon, and yet all the wrinkles shake out. Everywhere: a “sneaker pump” (a sneaker with an elongated pointy toe like a court shoe). This is “a factory and a laboratory starting small”, Elbaz says in the film. “Can tradition and technology coexist? Is fashion still relevant today? The answer is a big, big yes. When things are not great. We need fashion.” Alber Elbaz in 2019 found a home at Richemont, with the AZ factory  project, where he says he is preparing a "dream factory" that rebels against fashion cycles, automatic collections made by algorithms, the fear of not being liked. “My dream factory wants to be the place of authenticity. Ours is not an incubator but a forge of real things, with the dream as the starting point and the product as the arrival point ”, he declared.

NEW DESIGNERS: NGUYEN HOANG TU

Nguyen Hoang Tu is a Vietnamese brand.
 Nguyen Hoang Tu speak about his brand and he tell that he grew up with fabric as his mother is a tailor and day by day he fall in love with them. He explain that He always imagine how the fabrics would turn out to be a beautiful dress whenever he touch them. Following fashion to renovate the basic fabric is the decision that he had made. And there’s always nature mixed up in his designs as he's one of those who can not live without nature. Then collections form up with experience. he hope his designs at least would reach to those dreamers and bring them the belief in beauty as real life out there is making us weary.
 S/S 2020 Collection:

 From F/W 2019 Collection:

NEW LABELS:PH5

 PH5 is an advanced contemporary women’s knitwear brand founded by Wei Lin, the daughter of a large knitwear manufacturer, and created by a Parsons-trained, award-winning designer, Mijia Zhang.
Established in New York in 2014, the label challenges the conventional vision of knitwear by marrying whimsical designs with architectural dimensions of knitting techniques. Designer Mijia has a particular interest in innovative, high tech textiles and technical developments. After winning the Kering Empowering Imagination award in 2014, Mijia apprenticed with British designer Christopher Kane before joining Nike as a color designer for footwear. In 2015, Mijia became the creative director for PH5. Mijia’s design aesthetic is colorful and futuristic with a playful twist. Ms. Lin's mother runs the factory in Dongguan, China, where all the PH5 garments are made. But Ms. Lin said. "He is moving from" Made in Asia "to" Designed by Asians ".

F/W 2018-19

S/S 2018

BEE'S SNEEZE-NO GENDAR LABEL

Z Generation has been defined Gendar Fluid.
Clothing became increasingly unisex as men and women shopped at the same boutiques for similar items. By the 1970s, the gender lines were smudged. Whether it was David Bowie, Marc Bolan, or Brian Eno, the androgynous fashions of those icons helped shape a sexual liberation that is still relevant today.
One of the points of Manifesto by the London based label Bee's Sneeze is:
-Evaporate Gender Roles Lose yourself in order to free yourself. Embrace sexual androgyny and ambiguity and discard any notion of what you are expected to be.
But another point said:
-Treasure the Past Be nostalgic in order to move forward. Never be afraid to mesh the styles that turn you on; from fashion, visual art and music. Constantly seek out new ideas, influences and inspiration. Knowledge expands the mind.
So...The 1960s were a combination of unusual figures and icons, it was chaos and disorder. Their astonishingly original and effortless way of dressing has transcended generations. They used their clothes to promote themselves, creating an image. Suddenly men became more ostentatious than women and it became acceptable for them to care about how they dressed.
The collection mixing wools, velvets, faux furs, shimmery jerseys, glittery fabrics and silks with eye catching prints and sophisticated textures that create timeless one off pieces.
All ethically made in London, and crafted from the finest authentic vintage fabrics.
http://www.thebeessneeze.co.uk

NEW DESIGNERS:GAYEON LEE

Gayeon Lee was born in Seoul, South Corea, she completed her Fashion  MA in womenswear at Central Saint Martins in 2013, in the same year Lady Gaga rented eight of Lee's MA graduate outfits and wore one of them while promoting her new album.She gained great exposure with her graduation collection, in which her pieces featured in various magazines and press. After worked in London and New York for several luxury labels, Gayeon Lee launch her own label in 2014.
Her brand suggests a sophisticated simplicity. Her passion for arts and crafts, also see’s many artisanal elements incorporated in her work, which enhances the delicate finish to her thought-out and sophisticated pieces. Her conceptually  collections always reveal new possibilities in textures, shapes and proportions.

Gayeon Lee è nata a Seoul, Corea del Sud, ha completato la sua Fashion MA in abbigliamento femminile alla Central Saint Martins nel 2013, nello stesso anno, Lady Gaga noleggia otto  abiti proposti per la laurea di Lee e indossa uno di questi per promuovere il suo nuovo album. Gayeon Lee guadagna grande esposizione con la sua collezione per la laurea, i suoi pezzi sono presenti in varie riviste e quotidiani. Dopo aver lavorato a Londra e New York per diversi brands di lusso, Gayeon Lee lancia la propria etichetta nel 2014.
Il suo marchio suggerisce una semplicità sofisticata. La sua passione per le arti e mestieri, vede  molti elementi artigianali applicati al suo lavoro, che esalta la finitura delicata dei pezzi sofisticati. Le sue collezioni concettuali rivelano sempre nuove possibilità di texture, forme e proporzioni.

S/S 2016 COLLECTION

NEW DESIGNERS:KENTA MATSUSHIGE

Kenta Matsushige is graduated from the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in 2012. He lives and works in Paris. « A work installed within a bucolic setting orin a small provincial town, will have more presence than lost in a city. My collection aims to be urban and modern whilst respecting hinabi, pastoral beauty, which is in opposition to miyabi, urban beauty ». Collection produced with the support of Tessitura Monti India Pvt.Ltd., NIKKE-The Japan Wool Textile Co. Ltd., Amy Cuir - PremièreVision. The Japanese designer from the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne couture body was chosen from a shortlist of 10 other young designers, who also showed their collections. Inspired by the architecture of Japanese museums the peace of the countryside and its tradition sand, the augmented reality videos that allow virtual 2D or 3D elements to be added to our natural perception of reality.