FASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS:TONI FRISSELL

Vogue described Toni Frissell as a “famous photographer, dauntless sportswoman (skiing, fishing, shooting, skin diving), world traveler, unflagging hostess . . . demon gardener, flower-arranger, flounder-spearer, clammer, and mussel gatherer."
Antoinette Frissell was born in 1907 in New York, but took photos under the name Toni Frissell, even after her marriage to Manhattan socialite McNeil Bacon. She worked with many famous photographers of the day, as an apprentice to Cecil Beaton, and with advice from Edward Steichen. Her initial job, as a fashion photographer for Vogue in 1931, she later took photographs for Harper's Bazaar. In the 1950s, she took informal portraits of the famous and powerful in the United States and Europe, including Winston Churchill, Eleanor Roosevelt, and John F. and Jacqueline Kennedy, and she did location photography on a freelance basis for LIFE, Look, Vogue, and Sports Illustrated until her retirement in 1967.Toni Frissell died of Alzheimer's disease on 1988, in Long Island.
Frissell's major contribution to fashion photography was her development of the realistic fashion photograph in the 1930s and 1940s. She had a tendency to use uncommon perspectives, which she achieved by placing her camera on a dramatic diagonal axis, and/or using a low point of view and a wide-angle lens against a neutral background, thus creating the illusion of elongated human form.
Frissell had a strict and simple philosophy: “I love anything that falls free of your body—peasant smocks, fishermen’s smocks, coolie coats. I don’t like to see a woman’s backside, no matter how flat it is.”

1939

1957

1948

1930

Dovima 1947

1930

CLAIRE Mc CARDELL-AMERICAN LOOK

Following the invasion of Paris in June 1940, the rest of Europe and the United States were cut off from French couture for four years. During the previous decade, American fashion designers had begun to develop a distinctive style, focusing on easy-to-wear, modern clothing as opposed to the elaborate and elite confections of Paris. Practicality was one prominent characteristic, and resulted in the use of easy-care-fabrics, adaptable styles, and capsule wardrobes with elements that could be interchanged.
The work of New york-based, ready-to-wear designers was promoted as symbolic of American values such as democracy, pioneer spirit, and a pragmatic approach to life.
The creator of the “American Look”, Claire McCardell (1905 – 1958) is considered one of the most significant designers of contemporary women’s wear. In an era when most fashion was influenced by Parisian haute couture, she drafted practical yet elegant pieces, tailored to fit a modern American lifestyle.
From the 1930s to the 1950s, she was known for designing functional, affordable, and stylish women’s sportswear within the constraints of mass-production, and is today acknowledged as the creator of the "American Look", a democratic and casual approach to fashion that rejected the formality of French couture.

1954

1945

1946

1955-Chagall print

40's NIGHT

During the dark days of World War II, someone made this dress.

Abito di raso anni '40, cintura raso e gròs vintage, collant di pizzo Calzedonia, pump vernice Gastone Lucioli, orecchini Studio Morelli
40's satin dress, vintage satin and gròs belt, Calzedonia lace tights, Gastone Lucioli patent leather pump, studio Morelli earrings
FALL/WINTER 2013- 40's DRESSES

Costello-Tagliapietra

Bottega Veneta

Andrea Incontri

Marc Jacobs

Ralph Lauren

Carolina Herrera

Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2013/12/fashion-in-40s.html

FASHION IN THE 40's

Commenting on the Paris Spring Collections of 1945, American Vogue noted "a very slight tendency towards the longer skirt, Balenciaga, Lelong, and Rochas showing them a bit more below the knee".





CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena

Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle
Dal baule di un castello ritrovamenti e riadattamenti

abito di raso anni '40
40's satin dress

                                                   THE 40's

Veronica Lake

Lauren Bacall

Gene Tierney

Suzy Parker

Rita Hayworth

Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2013/12/40s-night.html

NAPLES STREET STYLE-PIAZZA BELLINI

Vincenzo Malinconico

ROCK/FASHION ICON:LIZA THORN

Starred's frontwoman Liza Thorn and muse for Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane.
 The guitar turned out to be Matthew Koshack’s and the voice Liza Thorn who together makes up the band Starred. I met Liza Thorn for the first time thanks to Hedi Slimane Rock Diary.
Thorn and Koshak first met a few years ago in San Francisco when Koshak was doing sound for Girls, the now-defunct band of Thorn's ex-boyfriend Christopher Owens.  The two hit it off immediately, and Koshak, a professional sound engineer, offered to record an EP for Thorn's band at the time, Bridez. So they moved to L.A. and commenced writing the heartbreaking lo-fi pop songs that would eventually make up the Prison to Prison EP.
https://vimeo.com/34916896

Liza Thorn and Matthew Koshack

from "Heidi Slimane Rock Diary"

from "Heidi Slimane Rock Diary"

from "Heidi Slimane Rock Diary"

from "Heidi Slimane Rock Diary"

from "Heidi Slimane Rock Diary"

                                                     "Call from Paris" by Liza Thorn

Eliza Thorn wears a Saint Laurent Paris fishtail dress.

NEW DESIGNERS:YING GAO

Ying Gao-Montreal-based fashion designer and professor at UQAM, recipient of the Phyllis-Lambert Design Montréal Grant, Ying Gao questions our assumptions about clothing by combining urban design, architecture and multimedia. She explores the construction of the garment, taking her inspiration from the transformations of the social and urban environment. She is interested in the forming of the garment that is still in the process of becoming a design. She play in the phase of construction and inspired by the transformations of the garment. Sensory technologies play a big part for her designs and make the garments more playful and interactive.

Spring/Summer 2014