LATE 800's BLOUSE

In the 1890s and early 900's, sleeves are becoming more voluminous, and the skirts have a bell shape, aided by heavy silks for which they are made, often lined to remain rigid. Under the skirt are gone tournure and wide saddles and now the volume on the sides and left to its natural shape. The neck is surrounded by a high collar, in contrast to the amplitude of the clothes, the hair is gathered in discrete chignon. Due to the large volume reached from the sleeves, they preferred short coat and large capes or pilgrims with high collars that frame the face.

 Intorno al 1890 e l'inizio del '900 le maniche diventano sempre piu' voluminose, e le gonne hanno la forma a campana, favorita dalle pesanti sete di cui sono fatte, spesso foderate per rimanere rigide. Sotto alla gonna sono spariti tournure e ampi sellini e ora il volume sui fianchi è lasciato alla sua forma naturale. Il collo e' fasciato da un colletto alto e montante e, in contrasto con l’ampiezza delle vesti, i capelli sono raccolti in discreti chignon. A causa dell’ampio volume raggiunto dalle maniche, come soprabito si preferiscono corte e ampie mantelline o pellegrine dagli alti colli che incorniciano il viso.



CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena


Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle

Late 800's blouse

Fitting in the House of Worth 1907

Johon Singer Sargent-Mr.and Mrs. I.N. Phelps Stoklus (detail) 1897

Johon Singer Sargent- Miss Helen Duinham 1892 

Charles Worth 1890

Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2015/12/from-800s-to-now.html

GILDED NEW YORK-MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK

Explore the visual culture of elite New York in the late-19th and early- 20th centuries.
The Museum’s Tiffany & Co. Foundation Gallery, Gilded New York explores the city’s visual culture at the end of the 19th century, when its elite class flaunted their money as never before. In New York, this era was marked by the sudden rise of industrial and corporate wealth, amassed by such titans as Cornelius Vanderbilt and Jay Gould, who expressed their high status through extravagant fashions, architecture, and interior design. The exhibition presents a lavish display of some 100 works, including costumes, jewelry, portraits, and decorative objects, all created between the mid-1870s and the early 20th century. It was a time when New York became the nation’s corporate headquarters and a popular Ladies’ Mile of luxury retail establishments and cultural institutions helped launch the city to global prominence.

On the left: Fancy dress costume by Maison Worth representing “Electric Light,” 1883 • Worn by Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt II to the Vanderbilt Ball • Museum of the City of New York
Right:Satin damask wedding gown by Maison Worth, 1878 • Worn by Annie Schermerhorn • Museum of the City of New York

Tiffany & Co., Brooch, ca. 1900 • Gold, sapphires, zircons, enamelTiffany & Co. brooch, 1900 • Platinum, gold, diamond, pearls, ruby, garnet, sapphireTiffany & Co. necklace, 1904 • Gold, diamond, pearls, turquoise, enamelMarcus & Co., Necklace, 1900 • Gold, natural pearls, demantoid garnet, enamel 

                                                                       

Tiffany & Co., Pendant brooch, ca. 1900 • Platinum, diamond, sapphire • Museum of the City of New York

Folding fan by Duvelleroy, c. 1900 • Painted silk, feathers, mother-of-pearl • Museum of the City of New York

Michele Gordigiani, “Cornelia Ward Hall and Her Children,” 1880 • Oil on canvas • Museum of the City of New York, Bequest of Mrs. Martha Hall Barrett, 61.155.1