In the final day of the Men London Collections there was a first Martin Margiela's show designed by John Gallaiano.
The former Belgian fashion label is now owned by Italian Renzo Rosso, who anointed Mr. Galliano its creative director last October, three years after the designer was fired from his job as artistic director of Christian Dior because of a drunken anti-Semitic rant.
Galliano sent out a collection in two parts:
First came a series of jackets in black or red, sometimes with one side cut away to reveal fringed and beaded hot pants and vests or bodysuits. There was a series of black silk trouser suits, a velvet maxi-dress, a leopard-print bodysuit under a red chiffon dress, bicolor platform shoes.
Overall it seems to me that Galliano hasn't manage to keep the mood more essential and minimal of the Maison Martin Margiela.