Friday, April 7, 2017

WRAP DRESS by DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

A wrap dress is a dress with a front closure formed by wrapping one side across the other, and knotting the attached ties that wrap around the back at the waist or fastening buttons. This forms a V-shaped neckline and hugs the wearer's curves. Although it is often claimed that Diane von Fürstenberg 'invented' the wrap dress in 1972/73, Richard Martin, a former curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, noted that the form of Fürstenberg's design had already been "deeply embedded into the American designer sportswear tradition," with her choice of elastic, synthetic fabrics distinguishing her work from earlier wrap dresses.
Wrap dresses had been designed by Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, and Claire McCardell in the 1940s. The Fürstenberg interpretation of the wrap dress, which was consistently knee-length, in a clinging jersey, with long sleeves, was so popular and so distinctive that the style has generally become associated with her.
 Wrap dresses achieved their peak of popularity in the mid to late 1970s, and the design has been credited with becoming a symbol of women's liberation in the 1970s. They experienced renewed popularity beginning in the late 1990s, particularly after von Fürstenberg reintroduced her wrap dress in 1997; she, among others, has continued to design wrap dresses since then.

Il wrap dress è un abito "vestaglia" con una chiusura frontale formata avvolgendo un lato all'altro, ed è annodato con una cintura in vita. Questo forma una scollatura a V  avvolgendo le curve di chi lo indossa. Anche se spesso si sostiene che Diane von Fürstenberg avrebbe 'inventato' il wrap dress nel 1972-1973, Richard Martin, ex curatore del Costume Institute del Metropolitan Museum of Art ha osservato che il modello della Fürstenberg era già  "profondamente radicato nella tradizione del design dello sportswear americano ", ma è con la  scelta di tessuti elastici e sintetici che il suo  lavoro si distingue dai wrap dress precedenti.
Wrap dresses erano stati già disegnati da Elsa Schiaparelli nel 1930, e da Claire McCardell nel 1940. L'interpretazione del wrap dress della Fürstenberg consiste nel progettarlo costantemente al ginocchio, in un jersey aderente, con maniche lunghe, e divenne così popolare che questo stile viene generalmente associato a lei.
Il Wrap dress raggiunge il  picco di popolarità nella seconda metà degli fine del 1970, e  diventa un simbolo della liberazione delle donne. Ha sperimentato una rinnovata popolarità verso la fine del 1990, in particolare dopo che Diane von Fürstenberg lo ha reintrodotto  nel 1997; e da allora  la stilista continua a disegnare questo tipo di abiti.

                                                               photo:Marianna Piccolino / styling:Mimma Montorselli                                                                                                  
                                                                                                 


Silk jersey dress by Diane von Fürstenberg,  Miu Miu patent leather open-toe pump, Balenciaga sunglasses, 70's floppy wool  hat.

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