Showing posts with label baron adolf de meyer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label baron adolf de meyer. Show all posts

Thursday, June 30, 2016

KIMONO COAT

Early last century, influences from the Orient influenced art and fashion.
Paul Poiret and Mariano Fortuny were the two designers who have brought more fabrics and designs inspired by the Rising Sun in fashion. Paul Poiret became famous with his controversial kimono coat and similar, loose-fitting designs created specifically for an uncorseted, slim figure. His designs were exotic; the Russian ballet, Orientalism, and African art, as interpreted by the cubists, were typical influences. Paul Poiret called this item a "kimono coat." The pieces constructed the coat were cut straight. East Asia, for him, was an extremely ambiguous concept, as it was for many contemporary Westerners and differences between Japanese garments, and even between Japan and China, were obscure. Kimono consisted of a natural drape of lithe cloth flowing down from the shoulders enveloping the body.
Mariano Fortuny also closely studied kimono, influenced by his father, a Spanish painter who was immersed in Japan art in Paris, he became familiar with kimono from his childhood. The influence of kimono can be seen in many aspects of Fortuny's clothing, including the composition of placing a supporting point on the shoulders, and the citing of patterns.
From then to now designers like McQueen, Galliano, Sarah Burton, continue to revisit the classic oriental kimono.
colori e altri materiali prese in giro qua e là....



CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena


Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle

90's kimono coat

Alexander McQueen -Vogue 2009

Dior by Galliano 2007

Eleonora Duse

Olga De Meyer photo by Adolf De Meyer

Evening Coat by Paul Poiret


Coat by Paul Poiret




Coat by Mariano Fortuny
Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2016/07/the-cherry-orchard.html

Thursday, February 20, 2014

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER:BARON ADOLF DE MEYER

Baron Adolf De Meyer was born in Paris, he was the first official fashion photographer for the American magazine Vogue and Vanity Fair in 1913, a post he abruptly abandoned in 1923 to work for rival Harper's Bazaar, he was meticulous, eccentric, a dandy, an arbiter of taste and trends who immortalized the first three decades of twentieth-century society and shaped the genre of fashion photography. De Meyer married Olga Caracciolo, an Italian noblewoman, and Olga would be the subject of many of her husband's photographs. The de Meyers' marriage was one of marriage of convenience rather than romantic love, since the groom was homosexual and the bride was bisexual or lesbian. Meyer wrote "Marriage based too much on love and unrestrained passion has rarely a chance to be lasting, whilst perfect understanding and companionship, on the contrary, generally make the most durable union."
 On the outbreak of World War I, the de Meyers moved to New York City, where he became a photographer for Vogue from 1913–21, and for Vanity Fair. In 1922 de Meyer accepted an offer to become the Harper's Bazaar chief photographer in Paris, spending the next 16 years there. De Mayer began doing flattering photographs of Belle Époque aristocrats, actors, financiers, and industrialists. His portraits of the sparkling beauties of the fin de siècle Smart Set were his calling card to a position and profession in Edwardian society. He introduced the use of dramatic lighting, of a male model, and of two or more models in the same picture. His influences included the Impressionists, and the Symbolist artists Klimt and Watts, as well as Whistler. A great manipulator of light and shadow, he also veiled his lens in gauze, extensively used backlighting, inserted light sources in unexpected places, and retouched directly on the negative.
 In the 1920s, the de Meyers returned to Europe. As they aged, it is reported, they became increasingly dependent on cocaine and opium. The baron’s career deteriorated as younger photographers, armed with the new 35mm camera, began stepping out of the confines of the studio and scoffing at the soft-focus lens. After Olga died, de Meyer destroyed much of his work and adopted his young lover as his son. He dies in Beverly Hills penniless and forgotten in Hollywood.

Jeanne Eagels

Elizabeth Arden-Advertisement-1926


1921 Baron de Meyer, Ballerina Desiree Lubovska Desiree Lubovska standing by a window, wearing a dark dress in Georgette crepe, with fringed waist, by Jean Patou

Elizabeth Arden-Advertisement-1926


Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney -AmericanVogue1917

Nijinsky in L'après-midi d'un faune - 1912

Vogue 1921


Tuesday, December 3, 2013

1920-LONG DRESS

After hundreds of years of concealing women's bodies, designers began to reveal their pure forms.
The wardrobe of the Twenties is immensely attractive, women wore stunning evening wear.





CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena

Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle
Dal baule di un castello ritrovamenti e riadattamenti



Abito di tulle ricamato anni '20
20's embroidered tulle dress
                        FROM HER TO ETERNITY
photo:Alfred Cheney Johnston 1925

photo:Alfred Cheney Johnston 1925

photo:Baron Adolf De Meyer 1920


Chanel 1939
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