Showing posts with label lauren bacall. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lauren bacall. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 30, 2019

60's VINTAGE BELT

The popularity of the belt in women's fashion has always depended on the position of the waistline and the style of the dress. Until 1895 it did not have great importance, later, under the influence of Art Nouveau, belts with decorative buckles became popular. In the 1920s, since the waist was down, they disappeared from the fashion scene, to appear again in the following decade. In the 1950s belts became taller to draw attention to the narrow waist and wide hips, according to the New Look dictates. In the 60s you can see leather belts, plastic chains resting on the sides. In the 1970s, fashion addicted usually worn belts with a masculine appearance, and at the end of the 80s and 90s, Chanel's belts with chains or matelassé leather and gold buckles became very popular.

 La popolarità della cintura nella moda femminile è sempre dipesa dalla posizione del giro vita e dallo stile del vestito. Fino al 1895 non ha avuto grande importanza, più tardi, sotto l'influenza dell'Art Nouveau divennero popolari le cinture con fibbie decorative. Negli anni '20 dato che il punto vita era sceso, scomparvero dal panorama della moda, per apparirvi nuovamente nel decennio successivo. Negli anni '50 le cinture divennero più alte per attirare l'attenzione sulla vita stretta e sui fianchi larghi, secondo i dettami del New Look. Negli anni '60 si vedono cinture in pelle, plastica a catena appoggiate sui fianchi. Negli anni '70 si indossano cinture dall'aspetto maschile, e a fine anni '80/'90 spopolano le cinture a catene o pelle matelassé e oro di Chanel.

60's  black leather and gold buckle belt

Brigitte Bardot 1956

Audrey Hepburn 1953
Audrey Hepburn 1953

Elizabeth Taylor 1953

Lisa Fonssagrives 1951

Lauren Bacall 1948
Jane Fonda 1971

Jane Birkin late 60's

Cindy Crawford in Donna Karan 1992 

Claudia Shiffer in Chanel, Autumn-Winter 1992, Couture
Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2019/07/au-clair-de-la-lune.html

Friday, February 5, 2016

PHASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS:LOUISE DAHL-WOLFE

Louise Dahl-Wolfe was an American photographer. She is known primarily for her work for Harper's Bazaar, in association with fashion editor Diana Vreeland.
She born in 1895 in San Francisco and she studied art, painting and design before focusing on photography from 1919. In her early 20's she visited the studio of Anne Brigman who had been one of the photographers associated. During the 1930s, she photographed rural life during the Great Depression. Dahl-Wolfe often juxtaposed her models with famous works of art, resulting in surprising and irreverent compositions. Fashion assignments led her to locations around the world, where she posed her models outdoors, in natural light.  Dahl-Wolfe was known for taking photographs outdoors, with natural light in distant locations from South America to Africa in what became known as "environmental" fashion photography.
 In 1936, she joined Harper’s Bazaar and contributed to the major changes magazine publishing and fashion photography were going through with her straightforward and skillfully composed images.  With Diana Vreeland and Carmel Snow, Louise Dahl-Wolfe depicted the new concept of sportswear fashion designed by such creators as Claire McCardell, highlighting a typical American style and a modern active woman - epitomized by a young Lauren Bacall - in outdoors and under a natural light.
She is known for having discovered a teenage Lauren Bacall. She was a great influence on photographers Irving Penn and Richard Avedon. She was also a very fine portrait photographer. Notable portraits include: Mae West, Cecil Beaton, Eudora Welty, W. H. Auden, Christopher Isherwood, Orson Welles, Carson McCullers, Edward Hopper, Colette and Josephine Baker. One of her favourite subjects was the model Mary Jane Russell, who is estimated to have appeared in about thirty percent of Dahl-Wolfe's photographs. From 1958 until her retirement in 1960, Dahl-Wolfe worked as a freelance photographer for Vogue, Sports Illustrated, and other periodicals.

 Louise Dahl-Wolfe è stata una fotografa americana, conosciuta soprattutto per il suo lavoro per Harper's Bazaar, in collaborazione con la fashion editor Diana Vreeland.
 Nata nel 1895 a San Francisco  ha studiato arte, pittura e design prima di concentrarsi sulla fotografia dal 1919. Nei primi anni '20  visita lo studio di Anna Brigman e diviene una dei fotografi associati. Nel corso del 1930, ha fotografato la vita rurale durante la Grande Depressione.
 Dahl-Wolfe spesso giustappone i suoi modelli con famose opere d'arte, con conseguente composizioni sorprendenti e irriverenti. I servizi di moda la portano in giro per il mondo, dove fotografa i suoi modelli all'aperto, con luce naturale.  Dahl-Wolfe era nota per scattare fotografie all'aperto, con luce naturale in luoghi distanti dal Sud America all'Africa in quella che divenne nota come fotografia di moda "ambientale".
Nel 1936, entra a far parte di Harper's Bazaar e contribuisce ai grandi cambiamenti che la rivista stava subendo grazie anche alle sue immagini semplici e sapientemente composte.
Con Diana Vreeland e Carmel Snow, Louise Dahl-Wolfe raffigura il nuovo concetto di moda con  abbigliamento sportivo progettato da designers come Claire McCardell, mettendo in evidenza uno stile americano tipico di una donna moderna e attiva -  con una giovane Lauren Bacall -  all'aperto e sotto una luce naturale. Dahl-Wolfe è infatti nota per aver scoperto un' adolescente Lauren Bacall. Ha avuto una grande influenza per i fotografi Irving Penn e Richard Avedon. E' stata anche un'ottima ritrattista. I suoi ritratti  includono: Mae West, Cecil Beaton, Eudora Welty, W. H. Auden, Christopher Isherwood, Orson Welles, Carson McCullers, Edward Hopper, Colette e Josephine Baker. Uno dei suoi soggetti preferiti è stata la modella Mary Jane Russell,  si stima che sia apparsa a in circa il trenta per cento delle fotografie di Dahl-Wolfe. Dal 1958 fino al suo ritiro nel 1960, Dahl-Wolfe ha lavorato come fotografa freelance per Vogue, Sports Illustrated, e altri periodici.
Liz Gibbons as photographer- 1938

Herper's Bazaar - 1938

Mary Sykes with postcards, Puerto Rico- 19338
Night Bather - 1938

Lauren Baccall in Helena Rubenstein's bathroom - 1942

California Desert - 1948

Mary Jane Russell in Dior - 1950

Natalie in Grès coat - 1950

Dior Ballgown, Paris - 1950

Mary Jane Russell - 1951

Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown - 1953

Luki in Balenciaga coat - 1953

Coco Chanel in her apartment, Paris - 1954

Evelyn Tripp, Herper's Bazaar - 1955

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

40's SILK BLOUSE

I suggest to read "Hollywood Babylon" by avant-garde filmmaker Kenneth Anger which details the sordid scandals of many famous and infamous Hollywood denizens from the 1900s to the 1950s.
The other side of glamour.





CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena

Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle







40's silk blouse
camicia seta anni '40
40's INSPIRATIONS
Lauren Bacall

Wallis Simpson

Gene Tierney

Frances Farmer

Linda Darnell

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

EARLY '70 LONG BLACK SKIRT

Check also this:http://www.scostumista.com/2012/12/workers-power.html





CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena

Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle





Early 70's long silk skirt
Gonna lunga di raso primi anni '70
LONG BLACK SKIRT..ALWAYS


Photo:Ross Garret


Charlotte Rampling

Gianfranco Ferrè
Dresses by Balenciaga 1946-photo Henry Clarke

Lauren Baccall

Claudia Shiffer

Coco Chanel
Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2014/07/a-different-way.html

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

BLACK AND WHITE STRIPES

Also this year my post about stripes can't miss!
http://www.scostumista.com/2013/01/stripes-last-forever.html
http://www.scostumista.com/2013/05/i-got-stripes.html
http://www.scostumista.com/2013/01/stripes-popstar.html




CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena

Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle
Dal baule di un castello ritrovamenti e riadattamenti




Late 80's satin striped shirt
Camicia di raso a righe fine anni '80
B&W VINTAGE STRIPES
Lauren Bacall 1943

Gene Tierney

1950

Helmut Newton 1966


1971


Ellen von Unwerth 2003

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