Thursday, November 17, 2016


Everything starts in 1979 when the designer Tokio Kumagai produces hand-painting shoes and  he  openes his first boutique in Paris in 1981. Kumagai likes working with special techniques such as paintings, appliqués, patchwork, and he finds his inspiration in nature, in literature and art. Especially inspired by surrealism, abstract art and expressionist styles, and artists such as Mondrian, Kandinsky, Pollock,  he often altered the structure of the shoe to accommodate his painting.
 The iconic shoes that wink are imitated in a shameless way  (see those by Chiara Ferragni) and those in mouse shape (see those by  Marc Jacobs). Charlotte Olympia has made of his cat-shaped shoes rush accessory of his collection, two aggressive eyes and sharp teeth are applied on the slip-on by Fendi, while Pierre Hardy applies a mega pop eye on his shoes and  Nicholas Kirkwood embroiders a stylized eye on his loafers. Keep an eye on shoes with eyes...thanking Kumagai.

 Tutto ha inizio nel 1979 quando lo stilista Tokio Kumagai produce scarpe dipinte a mano e nel 1981 apre la sua prima boutique a Parigi. Kumagai lavora con tecniche speciali come dipinti, decorazioni, applicazioni, patchwork e trova le sue ispirazioni nella natura, nella letteratura e nell'arte. S'ispira soprattutto al surrealismo, all'astrattismo e all'espressionismo; ad artisti come Mondrian, Kandinsky, Pollock arrivando anche ad alterare la struttura della scarpa per accogliere la pittura.
Iconiche e copiatissime in modo spudorato le scarpe che strizzano l'occhio (vedi quelle di Chiara Ferragni) e quelle a forma di topo (riprese da Marc Jacobs). Charlotte Olympia ha fatto delle sue scarpe a forma di gatto l'accessorio di punta della sua collezione, due occhi aggressivi e denti affilati sono applicati sulle slip-on di Fendi, mentre Pierre Hardy applica un mega occhio pop sulle décolleté e Nicholas Kirkwood ricama un occhio stilizzato sulle loafers. 
Da tenere d'occhio ringraziando Kumagai.
Tokio Kumagai

Tokio Kumagai
Marc Jacobs

Charlotte Olympia

Chiara Ferragni


Pierre Hardy

Nicholas Kirkwood

Tokio Kumagai


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