Showing posts with label metropolitan museum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label metropolitan museum. Show all posts

Thursday, December 6, 2018

CHANEL METIERS D'ART 2018/19 PARIS-NEW YORK

Karl Lagerfeld presented the 2018/19 Chanel Métiers d’art collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, under the Temple of Dendur. A golden collection inspired by Egypt, composed by long white chiffon gowns, oversize glinting bouclé jackets and miniskirts shaped to reference the wrapped skirts of Egyptian men visible in temple paintings, exaggerated plastron collars, details with colored stones, gold leather trousers, there was also blouson distressed denim and degradé leather trousers and graffiti prints by the artist Cyril Kongo, an homage to New York street culture and to hieroglyphics, to complete the looks: gold leather boots crocodile printed.
But what looked like crocodile on the catwalk at the Met was in fact mock croc; what looked like lizard was vegan pineapple leather.
“It has become increasingly difficult to source exotic skins that match our ethical standards,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion. “Meanwhile we are investing a lot in research and development, and the innovations in alternative materials that are happening in our ateliers are phenomenal.”
The Chanel Métiers d'Art collections are hand-worked but sold on the shop floor rather than made to order in the pure tradition of haute couture.








Thursday, June 8, 2017

REI KAWAKOOBO AL METROPOLITAN MUSEUM: il mio articolo oggi su Ladyblitz

Il mio articolo sulla mostra di Rei Kawakubo al Metropolitan Museum of Art's Constume Institute  di New York oggi su Ladyblitz con le foto di Francesca Chiacchio.
Clikka il link:http://www.ladyblitz.it/mostre/rei-kawakubo-al-metropolitan-museum-foto-1654973/

foto:Francesca Chiacchio



foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio


foto:Francesca Chiacchio
foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio

foto:Francesca Chiacchio



Monday, January 18, 2016

NORITAKA TATEHANA- SHOES SCULPTOR

Noritaka Tatehana was born in 1985, he was raised in Kamakura, where he initially started making dresses and shoes, all self-taught, when he was 15. He studied Fine Arts and Sculpture at the Tokyo National University of the Arts, later majored in dyeing and weaving.In 2010, he established his own maison, “NORITAKA TATEHANA”.
 He created shoes with thick platforms ("Heel-less Shoes") as his 2010 graduation project, and the shoes caught the attention of Lady Gaga's stylist. Every step of the manufacturing process of his shoes are handcrafted by the designer himself. Not only are his collection pieces held with admiration in the fashion industry, but they draw attention from the art world.  The idea came from "Takageta" (high heeled clogs) that used to be worn by Oiran (courtesans). When he was learning the traditional Japanese dyeing techniques of "Yuzen-zome" at the university, he created "Kimono" and "Geta" after the model of classics. The Japanese stylized flat-plane art, and spatial art founded on Western anatomical research seemed to him to be opposite values. However, the place where both coexist is today's Japan. It is this condition of Japan today, which received an influx of American culture after the War, that allows for the hidden possibility of rebuilding Japan's cultural values. The Heel-less Shoes are an artwork that has the sense of the contemporary which enables them to cross back and forth consciously across the borders of tradition and innovation, and also of local culture and global sentiment.
Personally I see them more as an object to be placed on a shelf, that as shoes to wear.
Noritaka Tatehana is not a shoe designer, he's a sculptor who carves shaped shoes objects.

Noritaka Tatehana è nato nel 1985, è cresciuto a Kamakura, dove inizialmente inizia a fare vestiti e scarpe all'età di 15 da autodidatta. Ha studiato Belle Arti e scultura presso l'Università Nazionale delle Arti di Tokyo, si è poi laureato in tintura e tessitura. Nel 2010, ha fondato la sua maison, "Noritaka TATEHANA".  Ha creato scarpe con platform ("Heel-less Shoes") come suo progetto di laurea del 2010, catturando l'attenzione della stylist di Lady Gaga. Ogni fase del processo di produzione delle sue scarpe sono realizzati artigianalmente dal designer stesso. I suoi pezzi da collezione destano ammirazione nel settore della moda, ma attirano l'attenzione anche nel mondo dell'arte.  L'idea  Ã¨ venuta da i"Takageta" (zoccoli con tacco alto), indossati dalle Oiran (cortigiane). Quando stava imparando le tecniche tradizionali di tintura giapponese di "Yuzen-zome" presso l'università, ha creato "Kimono" e "Geta", dopo aver creato modelli classici. L'artista giapponese mixa due valori opposti stilizzando il platform della tradizione orientale, e l'arte spaziale fondata sulla ricerca anatomica occidentale. Tuttavia, il luogo in cui coesistono entrambi è il Giappone di oggi.
E' questa condizione del Giappone di oggi, che ha ricevuto un afflusso di cultura americana dopo la guerra, che prevede la possibilità di ricostruire  valori culturali nascosti del Giappone. Le scarpe "hell-less" sono un'opera d'arte che ha il senso del contemporaneo che permette loro di attraversare avanti e indietro coscientemente attraverso i confini della tradizione e della innovazione, e anche della cultura locale e del sentimento globale.
Personalmente le vedo più come un oggetto da posare su di una mensola che come scarpe da indossare. Noritaka Tatehana non è un designer di scarpe, è uno scultore che scolpisce oggetti a forma di scarpe.



Metropolitan Museum NY


Trading Museum Comme de Garçons

Lady Pointe shoes designed for Lady Gaga-2011

Monday, August 31, 2015

CHINA THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

Last week to visit this wonderful exhibition at the Metropolitan museum.
 The exhibition explores the impact of Chinese aesthetics on Western fashion and how China has fueled the fashionable imagination for centuries. In this collaboration between The Costume Institute and the Department of Asian Art, high fashion is juxtaposed with Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelains, and other art, including films, to reveal enchanting reflections of Chinese imagery. From the earliest period of European contact with China in the sixteenth century, the West has been enchanted with enigmatic objects and imagery from the East, providing inspiration for fashion designers from Paul Poiret to Yves Saint Laurent, whose fashions are infused at every turn with romance, nostalgia, and make-believe. Through the looking glass of fashion, designers conjoin disparate stylistic references into a pastiche of Chinese aesthetic and cultural traditions. The exhibition features more than 140 examples of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear alongside Chinese art. Filmic representations of China are incorporated throughout to reveal how our visions of China are framed by narratives that draw upon popular culture, and also to recognize the importance of cinema as a medium through which to understand the richness of Chinese history.
 The exhibit closes on September 7th

Left:Roberto Cavalli evening dress  fall/winter 2005-06 - Right:Li Xiaofeng


Juo Pei evening dress spring/summer 2007 haute couture

Left: Dior cocktail dress 1951 - Right:Chanel dress 1956

Givenchy evening dress fall/winter 1997-98 haute couture

Johon Galliano for Dior evening dress fall/winter 1997-98

Johon Galliano for Dior evening dress Spring/Summer 2003

Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent evening dress fall/winter 2004-05

Jean Paul Gaultier evening dress fall/winter 2001-02 haute couture

Ralph Lauren evening dress fall/winter 2011-12

Valentino - Shanghai collection 2013

Evening coat 1925
See also:http://www.scostumista.com/2012/12/li-xiaofeng-made-in-china.html
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