PFW F/W 2020-21 #2

Rochas

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Mugler

Lanvin

Maison Margiela

Kenzo

Mulberry

70's RELOADED

During the Seventies although the hippie look was widespread, it was not adopted by everyone. Many women still continued to dress up with more glamorous clothes, inspired by 1940s movie star glamour. Other women just adopted simple casual fashions, or combined new garments with carefully chosen secondhand or vintage clothing from the 1930s, 1950s and 1960s. Perhaps, this one that I wear, it's one of  those glamours.

Purple red wool jersey 70's dress, crystal- and imitation-pearl bee-based on a '70s design from the house's archives-is the style name: Gucci embellished bee clasp leather belt, Tom Ford sunglasses, vintage sandals

FALL/WINTER 2018-19 COLLECTIONS

TOP: Orla Kiely - Paul&Joe - Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
DOWN: Piccione. Piccione - Salvatore Ferragamo - Tory Burch

TOP: Blumarine - Diane von Furstenberg - Dolce&Gabbana
DOWN: Elisabetta Franchi - Michael Kors Collection - Mulberry

Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2018/03/i-found-another-fantastic-70s-dress.html

LFW- FEB. 18-19

Tra una serie di eccessi colorati e senza senso che non sto qui a riportare, si distingue con la sua purezza, la semplicità e i tagli ricercati la collezione di Chalayan. Quella di Mary Katrantzou è una collezione diversa dalle ultime, gli abiti non sono le sculture eteree a cui ci aveva abituato. Ispirata alla montagna tirolese con tanto di mantelline, colli di pelliccia e cuori applicati la collezione di Anya Hindmarch. Mix di stili (per fortuna) per gli studenti della Central Saint Martins. Gotico e dark, Gareth Pugh si è ispirato al Portiere di Notte della Cavani. Mescola tessuti e linee diverse J.W.Anderson. Belle le camicie di seta accollate con grossa piega davanti viste da Mulberry. La stilista Natasa Cagalj disegna una collezione impeccabile per Ports 1961, capi deostruiti, gonne e top asimmetrici, linee scivolate. Belli i cappotti militari versione super femminile con fiori rossi di Simone Rocha. Street-style sexy per le ragazze di Versus con minigonne e micropull all'ombelico.

Chalayan

Mary Katrantzou

Anya Hindmarch

Central Saint Martins

Gareth Pugh

J.W.Anderson

Mulberry

Peter Pilotto

Ports 1961

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Roland Mouret

Simone Rocha

Top Shop Unique

Versus Versace

LFW-SEPT.18

The Preen by Thornton Bregazzi runway begins with somber suits, almost Gothic to culminate in a crescendo of glitter, ruffles of pastel toulle, sparckling prints.
Mary Katrantzou is inspired by Greek archeology, the designer reworks the archaeological inspiration with Sixties-style psychedelic graphic prints.
 Topshop Unique’s design director look at the punk and New Wave scene of the 80’s, with slashed-to-the-thigh skirts, sheer bandage dresses, vinyl pants,sporty big denim jackets.

Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos invited their guests to an open-studio visit to view their South American–influenced Spring collection, the silhouettes were feminine and breezy, long skirts and dresses, tapering into deep fishtail flounces, predominated, cut from ice-cream color linen, abstract flower prints.
Oversized proportions and asymmetries for the second collection signed by Johnny Coca for Mulberry, dresses and pinafores with big, sculptural ruffles, fluid evening frocks in super-reflective velvet or lamé.
David Koma looked at Russian court dress form the early 20th century,translated into corollas on neck, large puffy sleeves and bead detailing.
This last collection of Belstaff has an interesting story behind: the creative director Delphine Ninous is inspired by Augusta and Adeline Van Buren sisters, whom in 1916  drove their bikes 5,500 miles across America to prove that women could contribute to the imminent war becoming moto-couriers, and were detained several times along the way by local police who held them for wearing masculine clothes.
The super colorful dresses Temperley London are perfect for trampling meadows during a music festival modern bohemianism, timeless silhouette.
 Nature, specifically the British wildflowers, are the theme of the fashion show of Paul Smith, expressed in prints and embroideries.


La sfilata di Preen by Thornton Bregazzi inizia con abiti cupi, quasi gotici per sfociare in un crescendo di glitter, rouches di toulle pastello, stampe sparckling.
 Mary Katrantzou trae ispirazione dalla archeologia greca rielaborandola con con stampe grafiche psichedeliche degli anni '60.
 Il team creativo di Topshop Unique guarda alla scena punk e New Wave degli anni ’80 con gonne sexy con ampio spacco inguinale, abiti fascianti trasparenti, pantaloni in vinile, giacche di jeans sportive.
 Peter Pilotto e Christopher De Vos hanno aperto il loro studio per far sfilare i loro abiti ispirati alla primavera sud-americana, le silhouettes sono fresche e femminili, le gonne e gli abiti lunghi, affusolati in profonde balze a spina di pesce, stampe floreali astratte color gelato.
 Proporzioni oversize e asimmetrie per la seconda collezione firmata da Johnny Coca per Mulberry, abiti e scamiciati con grandi volant scultorei, abiti da sera fluidi in velluto cangiante o lamé.
 David Koma ha guardato gli abiti della corte russa de ventesimo secolo, tradotto con corolle al collo, ampie maniche a sbuffo e dettagli di perline.
Quest'ultima collezione di Belstaff ha dietro una storia interessante:il direttore creativo Delphine  Ninous s'ispira alle sorelle Augusta e Adeline Van Buren, che nel 1916 guidarono le loro moto per 5.500 miglia attraverso l'America per dimostrare che le donne avrebbero potuto contribuire all’imminente guerra diventando moto-staffette, vennero arrestate diverse volte con l’accusa  di indossare abiti maschili.
Gli abiti super colorati di Temperly London sono perfetti per calpestare prati durante un festival di musica, moderno bohème e sagome silhouette senza tempo.
La natura, nello specifico i fiori di campo inglesi, sono il tema della sfilata di Paul Smith, espressi in stampe e ricami.

Preen by Thorton Bregazzi

Mary Katrantzou

Top Shop Unique

Mulberry

David Koma

Belstaff

Temperley London

Paul Smith

Peter Pilotto

LFW#1-(MY CHOICES)

First days of London Fashion Week
Fall/Winter 2016/17
Here are some of my choices:

1-2-3-4:Mary Katrantzou-5:Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

1:Eudon Choi  - 2-3-4: Central Saint Martins - 5: Alice Archer

1-2: Topshop Unique - 3-4: Simone Rocha - 5: Vivienne Westwood

1: Temperley London - 2-3-4: Paul Smith - 5: Sadie Williams

1: House of Hollande - 2-3: David Koma - 4: Emilia Wickstead - 5: Felder Felder 

1. Margaret Howell - 2-3: Julien Mcdonald 4: J.W.Anderson - 5: Holly Fulton

1-2: Phoebe English - 3: J. JS Lee - 4-5: Isa Arfen

1-2: Gareth Pugh - 3: Bora Aksu - 4:DAKS - 5: Sacai

1-2: 1205 - 2: Barbara Casasola - Mulberry

1: Anya Hindmarch - 2-3-4: Alexander McQueen - 5: Belstaff

Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2016/02/lfw2-my-choices.html

BEST BACKPACK 2015

1.Textured leather See by Chloé €465 2.Prada €1.450 3.Sophie Hulme box flap leather €920  4.The Row backpack in suede €2.980
5.Stella McCartney shaggy deer with chain €835 6.Tory Burch €480 7.Delle Cose €650 8.Y-3 canvas with leather details €400

1.Adidas €35,00 2.Alexander Wang 1.195 3.Anya Hindimarch smiley backpack 4.Gucci Bamboo €1.890
5.Balenciaga lamb leather €1.345 6.Christophere Kane €1.025 7. Dolce&Gabbana Sicily€1.250 8.Eytys Void made of custom developed

1.Valentino veal and studs €1.850 2.Adidas by Stella McCartney neoprene 3.Givenchy peacock feather printed nylon€845 4.Jimmy Choo €1.250
5.Louis Vuitton taurillon leather €3.400 6.polyester Marc by Marc Jacobs €178 7.Elizabeth&James in a slinky weave €450 8.Max&co €269

1.Marie Turnor €377 2.Marc Jacobs soft leather €398 3.Marni soft leather €1.190 4.Mulberry switched from shoulder to backpack €1.290
5.Opening Ceremony a hybrid of a bucket bag and backpack €445 6.Prada €950 7.Zara €39.95 8.Rag&Bone Pilot backpack 

My favorites: See by Chloé, Sophie Hulme, The Row, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton, Max&co, Marie Turnor, Mulberry, Opening Ceremony.