NEW DESIGNERS:SANDY LIANG

Sandy Liang is a young designer of Chinese descent, she graduated at Parsons School of New York and her home based it's there. S.L. was press intern at Phillip Lim where she learn about how to run a business and how to communicate and now, at age of 23 she has her own line of clothes. Liang's pieces have been seen on several of fashion's heavy hitters such as the stylist Kate Foley.

FALL/WINTER 2015

SPRING/SUMMER 2016

ROMA STREET STYLE-VIA TEULADA

Filippo Hèstramin Rutigliano

BEST BAGS-WINTER 2015

1:L'Autre Chose(pony+elbamat €385,00) 2:Lanvin (lambskin cluch €675,00) 3:Mulberry (Delphie Mole-Gray €1.560,00)
4:Paula Cademartori (645,00) 5:Zara:leather cluch €69,95) 6:Balenciaga (€1.475,00) 7:Saint Laurent (wallet with chain in matelassé leather €995,00)

1:Chanel (with mosaics of Lesage-Price on request) 2:Dolce‹Gabbana (calfskin with brooches and plexiglass closure with rhinestones €2.250,00) 3:Ferragamo (pony, laminated nappa leather and calfskin €1.490,00)
4:Hermes (Pliplat €3.200,00) 4:Louis Vuitton (Chain Louise soft leather €1.900,00) Valentino (1.780,00)

1:Chloé (Hudston bag €1.495,00) 2:Burberry: (fringed suede €1.995,00) 3:Celine (€1600)
4:Miu Miu (madras bag €1.190,00) 5:Valentino (calfskin €1.150,00) 6:Umanoid (cow leather €340,00)

LITTLE "A" DRESS AND RUINS

Alongside the 90s minimalist references who are the masters in  this and the next season catwalks, as always you go to loot some trend launched in the '60s. This is the time of "A line" or trapezoid, which is well matched with the minimalism silhouettes. Mini and flared dresses inspire Prada collection especially, with tailoring and applications that make us relive the purest sixties mood, as well as the collection of Aquilano Rimondi and Au Jour le Jour that combines dresses with tights and eccentric accessories. Calvin Klein, faithful to his style, shows us clothes more minimal/sixties, a good compromise between the two worlds, while Dior surprises us with cuts and overlays on the neckline, Delpozo enriches models with applications or with unusual fabrics, while Katrantzou and Giamba overlap fabrics, materials and colors, Miu Miu uses crocodile leather for simple sheath dresses worn over patterned shirts.

Accanto ai richiami minimalisti degli anni '90 che fanno da padrone nelle passerelle di questa e della prossima stagione, si va come sempre a depredare qualche tendenza lanciata negli anni '60. Questa è la volta della linea ad A o a trapezio, che ben si abbina alle siluette asciutte del minimalismo. Abiti mini e svasati ispirano soprattutto la collezione di Prada, che con tagli sartoriali e applicazioni ci fa rivivere il mood sixties più puro, così come la collezione di Aquilano Rimondi e Au Jour le Jour che abbina gli abiti a collant e accessori eccentrici. Calvin Klein, fedele al suo stile, mostra abiti più minimal/sixties, un buon compromesso tra i due mondi, mentre Dior ci sorprende con tagli e sovrapposizioni sulla scollatura, Delpozo arricchisce i modelli con applicazioni o con tessuti inusuali, mentre Katrantzou e Giamba sovrappongono tessuti, materie e colori, Miu Miu usa la pelle coccodrilata per tubini semplici indossati sopra camice fantasia.

                                                                                                                                    photo:Paola Testa

60's double silk crepon laminated dress with rhinestones under breast and matching shoes
Abito in doppio crepon laminato anni '60 con applicazione di strass sotto il seno e scarpe abbinate

WINTER SIXTIES

Neil Barrett

Prada

Aquilano Rimondi

Calvin Klein

Au Jour le Jour

Dior

Delpozo

Giamba

Mary Katrantzou

Miu Miu

RELATED ARTICLE:http://www.scostumista.com/2015/09/sixties-dress-and-shoes.html

SIXTIES DRESS AND SHOES

During the sixties, for the first time, London, not Paris, was the center of the fashion world.
Mary Quant, Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton, the Swinging London influenced the catwalks of the time. Bright, swirling colors, news materials such as plastics and shiny metallic fabrics, short skirts, optical pattern and "A line" for dresses and coat. A young fashion that creates a break with the sober and sophisticated clothes worn by "the ladies" of the 50's.

Negli anni '60, per la prima volta è Londra e non Parigi a dettare le regole della moda.
Mary Quant, Twiggy e Jean Shrimpton, la Swinging London influenzano le passerelle dell'epoca.
Colori brillanti e vivaci, nuovi materiali come plastica e tessuti metallici, gonne cortissime. disegni optical e linee a trapezio per gli abiti e capispalla. Una moda giovane che crea una rottura con gli abiti sobri e sofisticati indossati dalle "lady" degli anni '50.



CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena


Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle

60's "little A dress" with rhinestones under breast and matching shoes

Jenny Boyd 1966

Dior 1966

Jackie Kennedy

Edie Sedwick

Jean Shrimpton

ph. David Bailey

Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2015/09/little-dress-and-ruins.html

WHAT'S HELMUT LANG DOING?

Left:Helmut Lang's sculpture - Right: Helmut Lang's fashion 

I want to draw on the few days ago article by Sara Mower published on Vogue.
 She writes an "Amarcord" about who was Helmut Lang during the 90's.
 "Lang performed the rites of passage into adulthood for all those who had grown up as punks and ravers, people who’d slouched through their youth wearing nothing but T-shirts, jeans, parkas, and sneakers as their tribal badges of honor. Before Helmut, fashion had nothing for this anti-fashion youth-pack to put on. They didn’t even want it. But by the mid-nineties, this was the crowd that was rising to power in the creative classes: artists, actors, stylists, photographers, movie-makers, editors, graphic designers, entrepreneurs-people in their 20s and 30s who were going out and killing it in business for the first time in their lives."
 The structured and elegant silhouette by Lang fitted perfectly with the minimalism of the first year ninety. With Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, and Jil Sander among them, defining styles that became labeled as “deconstructionist” or “minimalist.”
 At the beginning the Lang's label have been successful in Austria, this has encouraged Lang to expand in Europe. In 1986, he started selling its models in Paris. In 1998, he moved to New York City. In 1999 Prada bought 49% of the brand Lang, the following year, Prada has gained 51%, taking total control. In 2005 Lang quit his work as fashion designer. Prada consequently sold it to Link Theory of Japan in 2006. Link Theory re-launched the Helmut Lang label with new designers in 2007, (Michael e Nicole Colovos untill 2014).
While the brand with his name went on, Helmut Lang reinvented himself as an artist.
 After several exhibitions since 2007 in Europe and United States, last winter, the New York gallery Sperone Westwater presented an exhibition of sculptures by Helmut Lang, the artist’s first New York gallery solo show.
Lang’s artistic practice is characterized by his use of materials and textures, assembled from diverse sources and repurposed and transmuted with resin and pigment into a series of pillar-like sculptures, each measuring between 10 and 12 feet high. A series of wall sculptures, composed of resin and pigment pressed together in plankton-like sheets, offers a delicate contrast to the taut tall pillars.
If with her fashion in the 90's Mr.Lang he dictated the rules of minimalism, now with his work following the wave of post-minimalism.

 Voglio riallaciarmi all'articolo di Sara Mower pubblicato un paio di giorni fa su Vogue.
 La Mower scrive un'Amarcord su cosa è stato il designer Helmut Lang negli anni '90.
 "Lang ha eseguito i riti di passaggio all'età adulta per tutti coloro che erano cresciuti come punk e raver, persone che avevano stravaccato attraverso la loro gioventù con addosso solo T-shirt, jeans, giacconi, e scarpe da ginnastica come loro segni distintivi tribali d'onore. Prima di Helmut, la moda non aveva nulla da far indossare per questo giovane-pacchetto anti-moda. Ma verso la metà degli anni novanta, questa è stata la folla che stava sorgendo al potere nelle classi creative:.. artisti, attori, stilisti, fotografi, cineasti, redattori, grafici, imprenditori -persone che con i loro 20 e 30 anni erano uscite per far fuori il business per la prima volta nella loro vita.
 " Le siluette minimali e ben strutturate di Lang si adattano perfettamente al minimalismo dei primi anni '90. Con Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, e Jil Sander definisce lo stile che viene chiamato "decostruzionista" o "minimalista".
 Il sucesso iniziale del marchio a Vienna, incoraggia lo stilista ad espandersi in Europa. Nel 1986 comincia a vendere i suoi modelli a Parigi. Nel 1998 si trasferisce a New York. Nel 1999 Prada compra il 49% del brand, e l'anno seguente acquisisce il controllo totale col 51%. Nel 2005 Lang lascia il suo lavoro di fashion designer. Sucessivamente Prada vende alla giapponese Link Theory che rilancia l'etichetta con 2 nuovi designer (Michael e Nicole Colovos fino al 2014).
 Mentre il marchio con il suo nome va avanti, Helmut Lang si reinventa come artista.
Dal 2007 dopo una serie di mostre in Europa e negli Stati Uniti, lo scorso anno la galleria Newyorkese Sperone Westwater ha presentato una personale dell'artista.
 La pratica artistica di Lang si caratterizza per l' uso di materiali  e texture assemblati  con resina e pigmenti in una serie di sculture pilastro, ognuna misura tra i 10 e i 12 piedi. Una serie di sculture a parete, composte da resine e pigmenti pressate insieme in fogli tipo plancton, offre un delicato contrasto con gli alti pilastri
 Se con la sua moda Mr.Lang negli anni '90 dettò le regole del minimalismo, ora con il suo lavoro segue l'ondata del post-minimalismo.

ROMA STREET STYLE-VIA GOMENIZZA

Francesca Tamagnini
costume designer

DIY-EYES CONTOUR

Do it yourself!
It's simple to do and all natural.
You need:
Calophylla oil
Blue chamomile essential oil
Helichrysum Italicum essential oil
An empty glass bottle
Mix in 10ml of Calophylla oil one drop of Blue Chamomile and one drop of Helichrysum Italicum
Shake well and it's ready to use.
Just two drops for night on eye contour it's enough for the treatment.

NEW DESIGNERS:BAJA EAST

Scott Studenberg and John Targon founded BAJA EAST in October 2013 and are carving out a new niche in the market they've dubbed "loose luxury." Blurring the lines between mens and womens, they take an ambisexual approach to everyday dressing where west coast ease meets aggressive city cool. Pack, travel, and take their laid-back luxe staples anywhere — from city to sand, surf to street. Clothes are easily worn and shared between men and women, the collection boasts global-inspired prints and patterns. Despite its early age, the label has been nominated for prestigious honors including the LVMH Prize for emerging designers and a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award.